Palermo Parks, Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires also boasts a variety of elegant and expansive parks and plazas all masterly designed,

Bunos Aires may be known primarily as a bustling metropolis, but it also boasts a variety of elegant and expansive parks and plazas all masterly designed, lovingly cultivated and meticulously maintained.
Many of these spaces were the brainchild of master landscape architect Charles Thays, a French-Argentine visionary who sought to bring the majesty of French gardens to South America. In so doing he delivered perfect havens where weary travelers can enjoy a moment away from the frenetic pace but also see how local families unwind at the weekends.

Plaza Italia and Jardín Botánico
Plaza Italia is one of the principal transport hubs in the city. The plaza itself was created specifically for the area, rather than springing up as an offshoot of outdoor markets or commercial centers. It’s notable for its central equestrian monument of Italian general Giuseppe Garibaldi, who led the Italian legion in the Uruguayan Civil War. More noteworthy, however, is that the plaza fronts both the Jardín Botánico and the Ecoparque (Avenidas Sarmiento and Las Heras, daily 10am–7pm), formerly the Buenos Aires Zoo.

The Jardín Botánico (Avenida Santa Fe 3951, Tue–Sun 8am–6.30pm), on the other hand, is a unique area of the city and definitely worth a stroll. Sitting on a modest 17 acres (6.8 ha), this triangular-shaped park has an abundant flora of some 6,000 plant species.
It’s also famous for being the pet project of landscape artist Charles Thays (see box, click here), who labored for years to turn his vision into reality. A bust of him stands near the entrance, in front of the English-style-mansion where Thays lived in the 1880s. His penchant for French symmetry is on full display here, and there is a distinct geometric look in the landscaping. In other areas however, he switches to a more formal style, with trees from around the globe - European oaks, US sequoias and Brazilian-Argentine silk floss trees - lining running streams.

Paseo El Rosedal

Approach the north end of Plaza Intendente Seeber and cross Avenida Libertador. You’ll then arrive in Parque 3 de Febrero, the city’s largest park. Head northwest along Avenida Iraola and then onto Avenida Pedro Montt, both quiet park streets. You will now be at the entrance to the Paseo El Rosedal 6 [map], the undisputed horticultural star of Buenos Aires. This extraordinary rose garden created in 1914 boasts some 18,000 roses from 93 different varieties, most of them concentrated in a maze of redolent bushes near the west end of the garden’s lake. And if the sheer abundance of roses wasn’t enough, there are many other landscaping marvels to look out for as well.

Planetario Galileo Galilei


Exit the Paseo El Rosedal and continue north along Sarmiento. Cross Avenida Figueroa Alcrota (with its rotunda featuring another equestrian statue, this one Justo José de Urquiza, a general and confederate president of Argentina), and you’ll arrive at the Planetario Galileo Galilei (Samriento s/n; www.planetario.gob.ar; ticket office: Tue–Sun from noon until the last show of the day; shows Tue–Fri at 1pm and 4pm, shows Sat–Sun and holidays every hour from 2–7pm). This spaceship-looking planetarium was designed by Argentine architect Enrique Jan in 1967, and his geometric vision is clear to see. Inside, images of the sun, stars, planets and constellations projected onto the dome’s curvaceous wall to spectacular effect. The magic happens also outside - at night the exterior of the building lights up in a dazzling LED show that’s perfectly viewed from the man-made lake near the building’s entrance.

Jardín Japonés

From the Planetario head in a southeastern direction and cross Avenida Sarmiento. Walk one expansive block along Figueroa Alcorta, passing the Club de Amigos, a private sports club for Argentine families. Turn south at Avenida Casares and cross Fiegueroa Alcorta to the entrance of another lush park, the Jardín Japonés 8 [map] (Avenida Casares 2966; daily 10am–6pm), which is administered by Buenos Aires’s Japanese-Argentine Cultural Foundation.

The garden’s main pathway winds around a small central lake complete with arched red bridges, well-manicured hills, bonsai trees and lookout points. The water here is teeming with ravenous koi, fat and lazy from being constantly fed by visitors (bags of fish food are available to purchase). On the south end is a monument dedicated to Japanese immigrants to Buenos Aires and next to it is the upscale Jardín Japonés restaurant, which stays open after park hours. Behind the restaurant, a well-stocked greenhouse sells various species of plants including orchids.

The route ends here but if you are in search of a more cultural finale you may want to continue further and exit the Jardín Japonés, walk southwest along Figueroa Alcorta four blocks until you reach the angular, avant-garde facade of the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA; Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415; www.malba.org.ar; Thu–Mon noon–8pm, until 9pm on Wed; half-price general admission on Wed). Inside it is a multi-level cultural celebration of all things Latin American, from cinema and literature to painting and sculpture.


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